Speaking of Perfume! The Hez Parfums Glossary of Perfume Terminology A - Z
Consider this your starter kit to the captivating world of scent. The Hez Parfums Glossary of Perfume Terminology A - Z is a simply and straightforward primer on perfume terminology. Read up before your next trip to the fragrance counter or your next perfuming class! Soon you’ll be speaking the language of perfume!
A
| Absinthe | a fragrance note that is inspired by the alcoholic beverage of the same name. It typically has a bitter, herbal, and anise-like aroma, often associated with wormwood and other botanical ingredients. |
| Absolute/ Absolue | An absolute is a highly-concentrated fragrance oil similar to an essential oil, but produced via solvent extraction or enfleurage and therefore generally even more concentrated. Absolutes are key ingredients in perfumery, and the low-temperature methods used to produce them are often the only effective way to capture the natural fragrant compounds of fragile materials that can't hold up to steam distillation. |
| Accord | An accord is a combination of two or more different materials that create a novel effect that smells very different from the materials experienced on their own. |
| Acidic | In chemistry, something that's acidic has a low pH, as opposed to a base, which has a higher pH. However, in perfume it could be used to just mean sour smelling. |
| Acqua Profumata | Scented water |
| Aftershave Splash | An aftershave splash typically has about 3% fragrance concentration and is used for soothing skin and tighten pores thanks to its high alcohol content. |
| Agarwood | Made from the resin of the Aquilaria tree, which it emits when it’s attacked by pathogens, oud has an animalic, earthy, woody, tobacco, sometimes camphory quality that is complex and dark. Most scents featuring oud use a synthetic version, because the real stuff is understandably expensive to harvest. |
| Agrumen | Citrus |
| Alcohol | Ethyl Alcohol or Ethanol, which is the main solvent used to carry perfume for extraits, colognes. When in a chemical name refers to the chemical group R-OH. |
| Alcohol In Perfume | Denatured ethyl alcohol added to fragrance compound as a carrier. May not have the additives used in Arabian perfumery, may contain vodka, perfumer's alcohol and perhaps |
| Alcohol Used In Arabian Perfumery | Denatured alcohol which has additives of mentholated spirits, rendering the alcohol undrinkable. Denatured alcohol has a particular smell which lasts for a few minutes after spraying. |
| Aldehyde | The chemical group R-CHO. The word by itself usually refers to shorter (C6-C12) straight chain (aliphatic) aldehydes used in perfumery. |
| Aldehydic | a general term that usually refers to metallic, starchy, fatty notes used in fragrances. They are popular in men's fragrances, but can sometimes be perceived as old-fashioned. However, a trace amount can give a beautiful sparkling effect to a fragrance. Aldehydes are not just limited to starchy, waxy and fatty notes. Cinnamaldehyde can be used to add a cinnamon note to a fragrance, and Vanillin is probably the most commonly used aldehyde material in perfumery. |
| Alembic | Equipment necessary for the extraction of essential oils. An alchemical still consisting of two vessels connected by a tube used for the distillation of liquids. The liquid in the cucurbit is heated or boiled; the vapor rises into the anbik, where it cools by contact with the walls and condenses, running down the spout into the receiver. |
| Aliphatic | (indicating straight chain molecules found in fats and oils) notes are fatty, soap waxy odours e.g. Aliphatic Aldehydes and Alcohols |
| Allergen |
a substance that causes an allergic reaction. |
| Amber | a warm, resinous, and often slightly sweet fragrance note commonly used in perfumery. It can be derived from natural sources like ambergris or labdanum, or created synthetically. Amber adds depth, richness, and a sense of warmth to a fragrance. |
| Ambergris | A biologic substance expelled from the digestive tract of the sperm whale. Upon aging on the open water, exposed to sun and salt, it develops a unique warm, balsamic odor. It is highly prized for this odor and its fixative properties, but is rarely used. |
| Ambrette | Ambrette, also known as musk mallow, is a plant that produces seeds with a musky aroma. Ambrette seed oil is used in perfumery as a natural substitute for animal-derived musk. It adds a warm, musky, and slightly floral note to fragrances. |
| Ambroxan/Ambroxide | Ambroxide, widely known by the brand name Ambroxan is a naturally-occurring terpenoid and one of the key constituents responsible for the odour of Ambergris |
| Amyris | a fragrant wood derived from the Amyris tree. Amyris essential oil has a soft, woody, and slightly sweet scent, often compared to sandalwood. It is used as a base note in perfumery to add depth and smoothness to fragrances. |
| Ancillary | An ancillary is a body lotion, shower gel, aftershave or deodorant (basically any kind of body product) that contain a perfume concentration (normally 2%) used inside their matching Eau de Parfum and Eau de Toilette. They can intensify your signature fragrance, or create a custom scent when mixed with another a perfume from a different line. |
| Animalic | a general term describing scents of animalic origin such as some types of musk (musk deer), civet (civet weasel) and castoreum (beaver). Today the animalic materials can been replaced by synthetics, and the term animalic can apply more widely. Some plants also have animalic characters. Costus oil distilled from the roots of Saussuria costus smells like dirty hair and mutton grease. Cumin oil obtained from the dried seeds of the cumin plant is warm and sweaty. |
| Anise | a fragrance note derived from the seeds of the anise plant. It has a distinctively sweet, licorice-like aroma. Anise is often used in perfumery to add a warm, spicy, and slightly herbal character to fragrances. |
| Anosmia | Often called nose blindness, anosmia is the inability to detect certain notes or odors. In perfumery, it's usually used to refer to a temporary condition caused by becoming acclimated to a certain scent- it's why it can be difficult to smell your own perfume after some time, but others can still smell it clearly. Nose blindness has a pronounced effect in the case of single-note fragrances such as Molecule 01, 02, and 03. |
| Aoud | Arabic word for wood in perfume, usually refers to wood from agar trees. Oud or agar is the resin extracted from agarwood which is the infected heartwood of aquilaria trees. |
| Aphrodisiac Scents | Scents reputed to make a person sexually attractive to another person. |
| Apocrine Sweat Glands | Type of sweat gland which contributes to the sexual and body scent in humans and which the excretions from which can influence the odour characteristics of an applied perfume. |
| Aquatics | A scent reminiscent of water but not overtly or heavily marine/oceanic. |
| Aroma | A sensation which is between smell and taste |
| Aroma Chemicals | Aroma Chemicals are manufactured essences that are used in perfumery. They are the distinctive notes of a perfume that create exclusive complex scents. |
| Aromatherapy | Therapy with aroma. The art and science of using essential oils (although in theory any aromatic substance could be used) to heal common ailments and complaints. Can particularly helpful with stress or emotionally trigger problems such as insomnia and headaches. There is little clinical data to back up its efficacy in serious medical problems. The term was actually coined by a French chemist, R.M. Gattefosse. |
| Aromatic | Traditionally used to describe the very large group of plants and herbs used as flavorings in various cuisines. A few examples are: Basil, Anise, Sage, Dill, Lemongrass, Spearmint. |
| Aromatic Effect | Given by a combination of natural and synthetic products with a dominant camphor content. |
| Artisan/Artisanal Perfume House | A perfume house owned by an artisan perfumer. This is similar to an Independent House, but the owner is typically the lead perfumer for the house. |
| Attar | An attar is a traditionally middle eastern perfume where the ingredients are fixed in rose essential oil instead of an odorless oil or alcohol, resulting in intense, complex fragrances. Examples of middle eastern style attars include the Al Attar and Xerjoff XJ Oud Attars lines. More broadly, an attar may refer to any essential flower oil. |
| Axon | Part of a nerve cell that conducts impulses away from the cell. |
| Azeotropic | An azeotrope or a constant heating point mixture is a mixture of two or more components in fluidic states whose proportions cannot be altered or changed by simple distillation. This happens because when an azeotrope is boiled, the vapour has the same proportions of constituents as the unboiled mixture. |
B
| Balance | The result of the blending of all perfumery components into one harmonious sensory experience. |
| Balsamic | Sweet, vanilla-like notes. |
| Balsams | These are resins that are rich in oil and tend to smell soft and sometimes faintly sweet. Examples are Peru balsam, benzoin and tolu balsam. They’re base notes, too. |
| Base Notes | Base notes are the heaviest, longest-lasting notes in a fragrance, that usually assert themselves after the heart notes have evaporated. Base notes are often present during the middle phase of a perfume, where they provide depth and stability, but once the heart notes have departed they take on a character of their own, a phase often called the dry down. Common base notes include woods, moss, amber, and musk. |
| Bases | Mixtures of naturals, isolates and/or synthetics, which are used as building blocks by perfumers in creating other perfumes. They are less complex than a finished fragrance compound and often are or contain unique or patented raw materials. They may also be called "Key Bases" (Used to lock an open formulation where 80-99% of the formula is disclosed), "Specialties", "Captive Bases" (Proprietary to a company) or "Accords" (Bases where no one material dominates the smell) |
| Basic Notes | The materials forming the core or body of the perfume, the heart, "le cœur". Example: "The basics of a Rose perfume are PEA, Geraniol, Citronellol and Nerol". Not to be confused with Base or Bottom notes. |
| Batch Codes | Quantity of in this case perfumes produced in a single run. Some perfumes scent may vary depending on the batch code |
| Beast Mode | A perfume that's powerful, forceful |
| Benzoin | Balsamic resin from styrax tree |
| Benzoin | a resin derived from the bark of several species of trees. It has a rich, warm, and sweet vanilla-like scent with hints of balsamic and amber. Benzoin is commonly used as a base note in perfumery to add depth, warmth, and a resinous quality to fragrances. |
| Bergamot | a citrus fruit with a vibrant, fresh, and slightly bitter scent. In perfumery, bergamot is often used as a top note to provide a bright and uplifting opening to fragrances. It adds a sparkling, citrusy, and aromatic quality to scent compositions. |
| Blackcurrant | a fruit note used in perfumery to provide a tart, fruity, and slightly sweet aroma. It adds a vibrant, juicy, and refreshing quality to fragrances. Blackcurrant can be used as both a top note and a middle note, depending on the desired effect in the fragrance composition. |
| Blend | A mixture of natural and/or synthetic ingredients. |
| Blenders | Not to be confused with modifiers, blenders are notes, raw materials, natural isolates or synthetic single molecules or composites used to round or smooth the perfume. If you imagine the three-tier top, mid and base construction with each part being created as separate accords, you can see that it might be possible to have jarring steps between the accords. |
| Blending | Also known as Compounding, this is the mixing of natural and/or synthetic aromachemicals |
| Blind-Buy | Blind-buying means buying fragrances (especially online) without having smelled them. |
| Bloom | The full-bodied expression of a perfume when it’s worn on the skin. |
| Body | The main structure or heart of a fragrance. |
| Body Spray | A body spray is a fragrance for use all over the body. |
| Boozy | A description for perfume that may smell of various alcoholic drinks like rum, whiskey, vodka, wine etc |
| Botanical Name | Refers to the Latin name of the plant in the biological classification system. A botanical name is composed of the genus followed by the species. |
| Bottom Note | Also called the dry down of the fragrance. This note contains the fixatives of the fragrance that impart the long lasting qualities. |
| Bouquet | Mixture of fragrant products without a dominant characteristic note. |
| Bouquetting | The rounding off and harmonising of a perfume or flavour. |
| Bulb Atomiser | Device attached to some perfume bottles which you squeeze and it dispenses a mist of perfume. Can be responsible for evaporation of perfume if left attached to the bottle when not in use. |
| Butyric | Similar to the odor of butter that has been sitting in the fridge too long. Derived from a Greek word for “butter,” butyric acid is used in flavorings as well as fragrances. In minute quantities, it can give a very surprising savory effect, but generally, if a perfume smells like rancid butter, something has gone wrong. |
C
| Calone | Sea breeze/marine aromatic chemical used in perfumery |
| Camphoraceous | An odor resembling camphor to some degree. The essential oil spike lavender is a good example of a common aromatic material with a camphorous note. |
| Carrier Oil | A vegetable oil base in which essential oils are diluted to create massage oils and body care products. Examples include sweet almond, apricot kernel, jojoba and grape seed. |
| Cashmeran | Synthetic aldehyde used for floral, amber, spicy perfumes, a musky odour |
| Cassis | Cassis, also known as blackcurrant bud, is a fragrance note derived from the leaves and buds of the blackcurrant plant. It has a green, tart, and slightly fruity aroma. Cassis is used in perfumery to add a fresh, vibrant, and slightly sweet aspect to fragrances. |
| Castoreum | An oily secretion from the abdominal sacs of beavers, often a byproduct of the fur trade. Its warm, animalic, and even fruity scent is used in many leather perfumes, but mostly in synthetic form. |
| Celebrity Perfume | Perfume created for a celebrity and promoted by them |
| Cetalox/Orcalox | A synthetic Ambergris, similar to Ambroxan |
| Character | A recognizable effect obtained in a fragrance. An effect that should be a faithful translation of the generating concept. |
| Cheapie | Inexpensive perfume |
| Chemistry | The relative experience of a fragrance as it reacts to the unique natural musk of a person's skin. |
| Chromatography | Scientific analysis system allowing the identification and control of perfumery elements. |
| Chypre | a fragrance family based on the interplay of citrus, floral, mossy and ambery notes. |
| Cilia | Short, hairlike cytoplasmic projections from the free surface of certain cells. Found on the olfactory bulb and thought to be where the odour receptors are held. They are constantly in a state of motion. |
| Cistus | From Greek kistos : a genus of flowering plants in the rockrose family |
| Citric | Citrus, Acidic |
| Citrus | a fragrance category characterized by the fresh, vibrant, and zesty aroma of citrus fruits like lemon, lime, orange, and grapefruit. Citrus notes are often used as top notes in perfumery to provide a sparkling and uplifting opening to fragrances. |
| Civet | A musky substance secreted by the civet cat, often synthesized now. |
| Clary Sage | Sweet/bittersweet oil has nuances of hay, tobacco and amber |
| Classic Fragrances | These are fragrances that contain balanced notes that are typical of their fragrance family. |
| Clean | Void of animalics |
| Clone Fragrance | Clones, dupes or sometimes disguised as ‘inspired by’ are copies of (popular) fragrances. Usually cheaper. There’s a lot of grey area, as many brands have overlapping fragrances, but there are brands that specifically or only make copies of other fragrances as their business model. Sometimes the presentation (bottle, box) will try to mimic the original fragrance it copies, but clones/dupes will be distinguishable and often carry a different name (a fragrance composition can’t be copyright protected, but the name can be). Buyers are aware that they are buying a copy. When a fragrance is trying to look exactly like another fragrance, tricking buyers into thinking that it’s the original, it’s called a fake or counterfeit. |
| Cloying | Term used to describe an extremely strong and overly sweet or heady fragrance. |
| Co2 | An extraction method for ingredients, whereby gas is turned into a liquid state and is used as a solved to extract the oil out of a material (similar to absolutes). By turning the liquid back into a gas, there’s no solvent left to separate from the final product. |
| Coffret | A collection or box set that often contains either smaller sample sizes of several fragrances in a line, or a fragrance and its accompanying bath products. |
| Cologne | A term derived from the French name of the German city of Cologne, where this product was allegedly first popularized. Originally, it was the condensate from the steam distillation of a water-alcohol infusion of citrus peels (bergamot, lemon, orange), herbs, leaves (rosemary, thyme, lavender), and flower petals (rose, orange blossom). With the modern advent of a wide selection of other essential oils and synthetics, this cologne has been considerably altered. Today, cologne is usually a diluted version of a perfume using diluted alcohol as its solvent and contains from 3-10% fragrance oil in the finished product. A less expensive fragrance oil is generally used for cologne than for perfume. After-shave lotions and toilet waters are technically considered to be in the cologne category. After-shave lotions usually contain 2-3% fragrance oil, while toilet waters sometimes utilize as much as 15% fragrance oil. |
| Cologne (Classical): | A term reserved for those fragrances which are basically citrus blends and do not have a perfume parent. Modern colognes, however, are often a lighter extension of the perfume. |
| Cologne (Men’S) | Unlike women’s colognes, it is similar to the concentration of toilet water, eau de Parfum, and in some instances perfume. |
| Cologne (Women’S) | The lightest form of fragrance with a low concentration of perfume oils mixed with diluted alcohol. |
| Complex Fragrance | Scent that changes over time, from the top notes to basenotes, non linear |
| Composition | The overall combination of all the components in the fragrances; the sum of its parts. When talking about the composition, I talk about how a perfumer made components work together and how pleasant (or not) the final result is. |
| Compound | A compound is a completed perfume formulation ready to be used in a product such as perfume, toilet water, etc. The terms “composition” and compound are interchangeable. |
| Compounding | Blending perfume oils |
| Concentration | There are four major concentrations of fragrance you can buy. They reflect not only the longevity of fragrance, but also its ingredients and qualities. From the least concentrated (smaller perfume oil ratio in relation to alcohol) to highest: Eau de Cologne, with around 2–5 % perfume oils; Eau de Toilette, with around 5–20% perfume oils; Eau de Parfum, with around 10–30% perfume oils; and Extrait or Extract, at around 20—40% concentration. |
| Concrete | A solid, waxy substance obtained from plants using volatile solvents, further rinsed with alcohol to produce an absolute. |
| Conifer | Refers to cone bearing trees and shrubs such as pine. |
| Coniferous | Cone-baring trees and shrubs. |
| Cool | some perfumes feel cool because of their association with freshness and marine vistas, while others have an actual cooling sensation thanks to materials like mint or patchouli. |
| Cool Spice | Spices and herbs that provide a cooling sensation, such as mint. |
| Copywriter |
a person who writes the text of advertisements or publicity material. |
| Copywriting |
the writing of text for advertisements or publicity material. |
| Core Notes | Refers to those notes that assert themselves as the top notes fade. Not as volatile as the top notes, they can last a few hours. Core notes are mainly floral, fruity or spicy. |
| Coumarin | Usually derived from tonka bean also found in lavender, sweetgrass etc. |
| Creamy | Some perfumes smell creamy thanks to the large doses of vanillic, musky and milky notes. |
| Creative Perfumery | The process of discovering or making new combinations and perfumes as opposed to copying perfumes or reconstructing naturally occurring fragrance materials. |
| Crystalized | form or cause to form crystals. |
| Cuir | Pronounced “queer,” cuir is the French word for leather. Leather perfumes are made with accords constructed from various perfume notes including birch tar, styrax, castoreum, myrtle, cade, and a variety of synthetic arochemicals. Chanel Cuir de Russie is a classic leather perfume. |
D
| Dabber / Splash Bottle | A perfume bottle or vial without an atomizer / sprayer. Sometimes with a stick attached to the cap, to apply to the skin that way (most attars have this), sometimes as splash bottle where you apply directly from the botttle to the skin (most seen in vintage men’s colognes). |
| Davana | a fragrant herb native to India. Davana essential oil is used in perfumery for its unique and complex aroma, which is fruity, floral, and slightly herbaceous. It adds a rich, sweet, and exotic note to fragrances. |
| Decant | A decant is a certain amount of fragrance ‘decanted’ into a different bottle or vial. Usually to be able to test fragrances cheaper and in smaller quantities. Used often in the online second-hand market places. |
| Depth | A fragrance has depth when a leading identity of accord or character is noticeable during its evolution from top notes to dry down. |
| Designer Fragrances | Designer (as opposed to niche) is a category of fragrances made by designer brands like Dior, Chanel or Prada; companies who’s first priority is not making fragrances. |
| Destructive Distillation | A form of distillation where the material, usually wood, is heated in the absence of air to volatilise the essential oil. Usually the resulting oil is very dark with a smoky odour. e.g.. Birch Tar Oil, Styrax Pyrogenated Oil. |
| Deterpenation | Process to remove the terpenic parts of certain essential oils. |
| Development | Progress of a fragrance as it changes after the initial application revealing different notes |
| Dewy | a fragrance or scent that evokes the fresh, cool, and moist sensation of dewdrops on leaves or flowers. It often has a watery, clean, and slightly floral quality, creating a sense of freshness and vitality. |
| Diffuser | The volatilisation, evaporation and dispersal of a material throughout the surrounding atmosphere. In chemistry and physics this is normally related to the high Vapour Pressure and low molecular weight of a chemical. However, in perfumery it equally refers to a material or compounds ability to permeate the atmosphere with it's characteristic smell around it's source. |
| Diffusive | A term used to describe a fragrance, the odor of which spreads quickly and widely. It fills the space. Also described as “throw” or “lift.” |
| Discontinued | Discontinued… a dreaded term for many fragrance enthousiasts. Fragrances get discontinued and become unavailable for purchase (although many will be available on discount websites or second-hand, sometimes at higher prices). |
| Discounter / Retail | Discounters are (online) stores where fragrances are sold, often at a discount when compared to retail stores. Retail stores are legit sellers, with permission from the brands. Discounters usually sell fragrances without permission from brands. While there is a risk of fake perfumes being sold, some big discounters are safe to purchase from in that regards. However, they may sell older formulations, bottles of which the storage method can’t be controlled or tester bottles that were not meant to be sold. |
| Distillate | A product of distillation. For example, lavender oil is the distillate of the fresh, blooming lavender plant. |
| Distillation | One of the oldest methods of separating oils from flowers and still widely used. It is a heat-dependent process for separation and purification of a liquid mixture based on differences in vapor pressure of components of the mixture. In each case, the flowers or other sources of oil are changed into a still and heat is applied to separate the oil. One type involves direct contact between the plant material and boiling water. In another type, the heat source is steam that is blown through the flowers. The process involves vaporization of the more volatile component(s) and then condensation of the vapor back to a liquid. The water and oil are collected and as they separate, the oil is removed from the top. |
| Distributor | an agent who supplies goods to stores and other businesses that sell to consumers. |
| Dominant | It is the most perceptible note from an olfactory point of view in a composition; E.g. a floral note with a dominant jasmine. |
| Dry | A sensation produced by certain perfume ingredients which give a drying effect. Often associated with wood, iris notes and aroma chemicals with the active group 'formate'. |
| Drydown | The last phase of a fragrance's lifecycle, the drydown refers to the final hours of a fragrance's detection, when the top and heart notes have completely disappeared and only the longest lasting part of the base remains. |
| Dumb Reach | A term coined online for a versatile, easy to wear fragrance. One that you can spray on, for almost any type of event, in any weather without having to think about it too much. A safe pick. |
| Dupe | Clones, dupes or sometimes disguised as ‘inspired by’ are copies of (popular) fragrances. Usually cheaper. There’s a lot of grey area, as many brands have overlapping fragrances, but there are brands that specifically or only make copies of other fragrances as their business model. Sometimes the presentation (bottle, box) will try to mimic the original fragrance it copies, but clones/dupes will be distinguishable and often carry a different name (a fragrance composition can’t be copyright protected, but the name can be). Buyers are aware that they are buying a copy. When a fragrance is trying to look exactly like another fragrance, tricking buyers into thinking that it’s the original, it’s called a fake or counterfeit. |
| Durian | a tropical fruit known for its distinctive and pungent aroma. Its scent is often described as strong, sweet, and sometimes compared to a mix of various aromas, including ripe fruit, custard, and even onions or gym socks. |
| Dusk | refers to fragrances that evoke a sense of twilight, with notes that capture the serene, calming, and atmospheric qualities of the evening. Dusk fragrances may include elements of warm spices, soft florals, or woody and musky accords. |
| Dusty | Dry, Earthy |
| Duty Free | Duty-free refers to the act of being able to purchase an item in particular circumstances without paying import, sales, value-added, or other taxes. |
E
| Earthy | refers to fragrance notes or accords that evoke the aroma of soil, moss, or other elements of the earth. These notes can include ingredients like vetiver, patchouli, or oakmoss. Earthy scents add a grounding, natural, and sometimes slightly damp quality to fragrances. |
| Eau De Cologne (Edc) | The least concentrated style of fragrance, with a perfume oil to alcohol ratio of only 2-5%. Originally referred to a specific style of lightly concentrated citrus-heavy fragrance created in Cologne, Germany, but is now used much more generally. Due to its lightness, an eau de cologne is typically bottled in large sizes and meant to be splashed on throughout the day. |
| Eau De Parfum (Edp) | A fragrance with a 10-15% concentration of perfume oil to alcohol. |
| Eau De Toilette (Edt) | A fragrance with a 5-10% concentration of perfume oil to alcohol. |
| Eau Fraiche | Even lighter than Eau de Cologne with about 1-3% perfume oil. |
| Elemi | a resin obtained from the Canarium luzonicum tree. It has a balsamic, citrusy, and slightly spicy scent. Elemi is used in perfumery as a note that adds a warm, resinous, and uplifting quality to fragrances. |
| Elixir | This has become a very popular term again since the release of Sauvage Elixir. However, the term has been around (Guerlain released Elixir Imperial c. 1853 for example) and has been used to describe ‘higher concentration’ fragrances frequently. For more on those, see Extrait de parfum. |
| Enfleurage | A traditional process for creating a fragrance absolute wherein the material is infused into animal fat, and then extracted from the fat into alcohol. The alcohol is then evaporated down to create an absolute. This highly traditional method is now considered inefficient, and has largely been abandoned in favor of modern processes like solvent or CO2 extraction. |
| Enhancer | a material used to enhance performance or smell. |
| Esprit De Parfum (Esdp) | 15-30% aromatic compounds, a seldom used strength concentration in between edp and perfume |
| Essence | refers to a highly concentrated form of a fragrance ingredient. It can be a single ingredient or a blend of multiple ingredients that captures the essence or characteristic scent of a specific material. Essences are used as building blocks in fragrance compositions. |
| Essences | Products which endeavor to capture or emphasize the highly volatile top notes of natural products. |
| Essential Oil | The “essence” of plants or the fragrant, volatile extracts obtained from flowers, grass, stems, seeds, leaves, roots, bark, fruits, tree moss and tree secretions. They are obtained by various means including distillation, expression and extraction. |
| Ethereal | refers to fragrances that have a light, delicate, and almost otherworldly quality. These scents often evoke a sense of airiness, transparency, and ethereal beauty. Ethereal fragrances may include notes like soft florals, clean musks, or light citrus to create a weightless and heavenly aura. |
| Evanescent | Fleeting or quickly vanishing note or fragrance. |
| Evaporation | The process of changing from a liquid to a vapor. |
| Evaporation Curve | The rate of evaporation for a material |
| Exclusives / Exclusifs | Refers to special lines from particular houses for example Chanel Les Exclusifs |
| Expression | A production method used to obtain citrus oils and fruit juices. The expressed or cold pressed essential oils are obtained from the peels of the fruits. Expression yields essential oils that can contain a certain amount of non-volatile material. |
| Expression | A method of obtaining citrus oils by pressing the peels. |
| Extract | An alcoholic solution of fragrance oil. The traditional concentration of the fragrance oil in an extract is between 15 and 50% of oil in the finished extract. The layman refers to the extract as “perfume.” |
| Extraction | A process for obtaining natural oils by means of tanks and solvents and is used with certain flowers and plants where the heat of steam distillation might damage or destroy the odorous substances or in such cases where the yield of oils is rather small. In one process, the tank is stationary and the solvent flows over the flowers or other natural matter. The other involves the use of a revolving unit inside of which the flowers move through the solvent. After removal of the solvent, alcohol is agitated through the remaining mixture of waxes and oils and the former is removed by chilling and filtering. The alcohol and oil mixture is then brought to the boiling point, the alcohol filtered off, and the concentrate allowed to remain for recovery. The concrete, as previously defined, is the pure essence in solid form from which an absolute is derived. |
| Extrait De Parfum | Usually 20+ % (not a fixed percentage). Extrait de Parfum, other names used are: Parfum, Extract, Absolue, Absolute, Elixir, Pure Parfum & more. The higher concentration makes for a denser, more rounded and full-bodied fragrance. Fragrances with a lot of heavier, base notes usually benefit from the Extrait concentration, whereas fresher, citrussy fragrances may lose some spark and vibrancy. The higher concentration generally extends the longevity, but also makes a fragrance smoother. |
F
| Facets | The various sides or nuances of a fragrance. |
| Factice | A replica bottle of a fragrance meant for store or advertising display that does not actually contain the fragrance itself. |
| Fantasy Notes | Notes used by the perfumer to convey an idea of smelling like something. Examples of fantasy notes are dirt, concrete, autumn mists etc. |
| Fatigue | Odor fatigue results from overloading exposure to an odor, or from smelling too many fragrances at one time. The nose can no longer discern any particular smell. |
| Fatty, Unctuous | an impression of thickness, heft and richness. A French term for it is “gras,” fat, and it is a trait that you often find in classical fragrances. This quality is often imparted by natural raw materials, especially floral essences. Jean Patou Joy is a quintessentially rich perfume, since it contains large proportions of rose and jasmine. |
| Fecal | Dung, Animalic |
| Fema | Flavour And Extract Manufacturers Association. |
| Femme | French for "Women" |
| First Impression Fragrance Review | Review of initial impression of a fragrance. |
| Fixative | A material incorporated in a fragrance for the purpose of: 1. Retarding the volatilization of the fragrance 2. Producing a comparatively uniform volatilization of the fragrance, so that its character does not radically change as it evaporates. Most fixatives have an odor of their own which must be taken into account in the design of fragrance oil. |
| Fixative | a substance used to equalize the vapor pressures, and thus the volatilities, of the raw materials in a perfume oil, and to increase the perfume's odour tenacity. In simple words, fixatives increase the time for which the scent of a perfume lasts. |
| Fixatives | Fragrance raw materials that are used to slow the evaporation process. |
| Flacon | Beautifully designed perfume bottles designed for portability. |
| Flanker | A fragrance release related to a popular or distinctive pre-existing fragrance, a flanker is usually similar to the first fragrance but with one or two key alterations. |
| Flat | A word descriptive of a fragrance that is lacking in distinction and top note. |
| Floral | Pertaining to flower scents like rose, jasmine, or lily. |
| Floral Bouquet | This is the most general group in the categorization of perfumes. The combination of Jasmine, Rose, Ylang and Tuberose, just to name a few, play an integral part in the creation of a Floral Bouquet. Florals are combined in various ways to give different nuances to the fragrance. The use of other aromatic materials in conjunction with these floral blends is a most exciting family in today’s fragrance trends. Joy, Anais Anais, Paris and Escape are examples. |
| Floral Fragrances | These fragrances are based on floral notes. Some floral fragrances are based on just one note, such as lily or lavender, also known as a soliflore (mentioned above in the notes section). Others are complex blends of floral notes, fruits and woods. |
| Floralcy | refers to the floral character or quality of a fragrance. It represents the presence of floral notes or accords in a scent composition. Floralcy can range from delicate and soft floral nuances to bold and intense floral bouquets, capturing the essence of various flowers like rose, jasmine, lily, or violet. |
| Flowery | Possessing a fragrance resembling a flower. |
| Food Grade | Considered safe for use in food. |
| Forest Blends | A definition of this group would be that of –woody, mossy, leafy and herbaceous. The aroma chemical manufacturer has given the perfumer many new materials that are characteristic of modern perfumery. These notes, when blended with natural forest products, develop into a wide variety of fragrances ranging from chypres to herbals. |
| Forest Blends | Aromatic, woodsy - mossy notes. |
| Fougère | a fragrance family inspired by Houbigant Fougère Royale (1882,) the first fragrance to combine natural materials with synthetics. Perfumer Paul Parquet added the synthetic material coumarin to the classical eau de cologne accord of citrus, lavender, geranium, amber, musk and oakmoss. Fougère means fern in French, and it was also the first abstract perfume—ferns are scentless, after all. |
| Fragcom | Fragrance Community |
| Fraghead | Person with an intense interest in perfume and all things related. A person who may be very knowledgeable on the subject |
| Fragrance | A composition of various natural and/or synthetic aromatic materials that create a definite odor effect. |
| Fragrance Aficionado | Fragrance expert |
| Fragrance Enthusiasts | Fragrance hobbyist |
| Fragrance Family | There have been various attempts over the years to break down the world of fragrance into classifiable categories. While there is no unchallenged standard, the often cited 7-category system used by the SociTtT Frantaise des Parfumeurs is as follows: citrus, floral, fougere, chypre, woody, amber and leather. Conversely, Michael Edwards' Fragrances of the World uses a wheel of 4 categories: fresh, floral, oriental and woody. In either system, there are multiple subcategories of further specificity. Other versions may use overlapping terms from both. As there is no universal system, it is common to see a single fragrance categorized in multiple conflicting (or non-conflicting) ways, which is why it's best to use the families as loose guidelines and not rely on them too heavily. |
| Fragrance Pyramid | A fragrance pyramid helps us visualise this process using triangles split into three sections ordered by the most volatile notes (the ones you smell first); at the tip of the triangle is the top notes, at the centre, the heart and at the bottom, the base notes. |
| Frangipani | Fragrant tropical flower |
| Frankincense/Olibanum | Gum resin from trees found East Africa and Arabia. |
| Freesia | a flower note commonly used in perfumery. It has a delicate, sweet, and slightly fruity fragrance. Freesia notes can contribute to the floralcy of a fragrance, adding a fresh, airy, and feminine touch. |
| Fresh | An effect introduced into a fragrance by the use of citrus oils, green notes, mint notes, and most recently ozone notes. |
| Fresh Fragrances | These are the lightest and freshest scents in the fragrance family, often consisting of aquatic and crisp notes. |
| Fruity | A note reminiscent of cherry, apple, peach, strawberry, plum, or any other fruit type. |
| Fruity | Notes that are sweet and edible, like apple, berry or peach. |
| Full Bottle Worthy | Perfume that's been tested and considered good enough to purchase a full bottle |
| Fungal | Odors suggestive of molds, mushrooms and fungi. Important notes in muguet fragrances as well as other florals. |
G
| Galbanum | a resinous gum obtained from certain plants. It has a green, herbal, and slightly bitter aroma. Galbanum is used in perfumery to add a distinctive green, earthy, and resinous note to fragrances. It can contribute to the overall complexity and freshness of a scent. |
| Galbanum | Gum resin with green plant-like smell |
| Gc. - Gas Chromatography | Is a method of seperating a a compound usually for the purpose of identifying the component chemicals .The separation occurs according to each component chemicals affinity for a moving gas phase or for a stationary phase (e.g.. wax or silicon packing material) A very small amount of the compound (e.g. 1 micro litre 0.0001 cc) is injected into the flow of a hot gas at the beginning of long (e.g. 30 metre) very narrow (capillary) tube. According to the affinity of each chemical ingredient for the gas or for the stationary phase each chemical moves at a different rate along the tube. This effectively means that each chemical comes out (elutes) at a different time. As the chemical emerges from the tube it is detected. In very accurately controlled conditions every chemical has a specific 'relative retention time' (RRT) which helps to identify it. The most popular detectors now for perfumery analysis are 1) The FID (flame ionisation detector). Crudely as the eluted chemical comes out of column end it goes into a flame. As the material is burnt, ions (particles with an electrical charge), are produced and these cause changes in the conductivity of the flame. This change is amplified to give a signal. The FID shows us there is a material eluting but tells us nothing about its chemistry. 2) the Mass Spectrometer. The eluted chemical enters the Spectrometer and is bombarded by a stream of electrons which break the molecule up into pieces. These are then detected as fragments sorted into their molecular weights. Each chemical has a specific way it breaks up so it can be identified from the spectra produced. |
| Generic | In relation to perfume, usually mean the same or similar to lots of other perfumes |
| Gourmand | an edible, dessert reminiscent fragrance. Vanilla, caramel, toasted almonds, cotton candy, chocolate, and marshmallows are the most recognizable gourmand notes. Thierry Mugler Angel is the gourmand trendsetter, but many feminine launches today have some sort of gourmand effect. |
| Gourmie | Term used around Fragrantica which refers to gourmand perfume lovers |
| Green | A note reminiscent of fresh cut leaves, grass, stems, and certain flowers. Among the essential oils, violet leaf absolute in an outstanding example of this green note. |
| Green | A term used to describe a nature inspired aroma that may consist of plants and vegetation and is crisp, earthy, stem like, leafy or fresh. |
| Guaiacwood | From a resinous South American tree, the oil from which is used in perfumery |
| Gums | Resins, Balsams The resinous exudates of the bark, twigs or leaves of trees or shrubs. |
| Gums, Resins, Balsams | The resinous exudates of the bark, twigs or leaves of trees or shrubs. |
H
| Harmonious | Order, accord and unity in fragrance. |
| Harsh | Describes a crude, pungent or objectionable note. Not to be used instead of “sharp.” |
| Hay | A sweet clover odor |
| Headspace Technology | A method pioneered in the 1970s of capturing scent molecules and reconstructing their smell for perfumes. A bell-jar like apparatus is placed over the scented object and the molecules are extracted and saved. Once they’re analyzed, a synthetic version is created. This is how perfumes that are hard to distill, like gardenia, and notes like dirt, in Demeter’s much-lauded Dirt, are created. |
| Heady Perfumes | A heady perfume could be described as something that makes your senses spin. They can be intoxicating and strong, most likely associated with florals but not limited to. |
| Heart Notes | The heart notes, or middle notes, of a fragrance are the primary notes that define the way a scent is described and categorized. The heart notes generally assert themselves in the first 10 to 20 minutes of wear as the top notes fade, and they make up the strongest impression of the scent. Florals, spices and botanicals are common heart notes. |
| Heavy | A heavy fragrance is balanced towards the bottom notes. |
| Hedione | A synthetic compound with a jasmine-like scent. |
| Hedonic | In fragrance, pertaining to the level of liking or acceptance of a scent. |
| Heliotrope | a flower note used in perfumery. It has a powdery, vanilla-like scent with delicate floral nuances. Heliotrope notes contribute to the softness, sweetness, and slightly almond-like aroma in fragrances. They add a touch of elegance and nostalgia to scent compositions. |
| Herbaceous | A fragrance note that is grassy-green, spicy and somewhat therapeutic, e.g., thyme, hyssop, chamomile. |
| Herbal Vs Grassy | herbal refers to the camphorous, green, dry aroma of herbs like lavender and rosemary (Guerlain Mouchoir de Monsieur), while grassy is green and sharp like the scent of a freshly mowed lawn or crushed leaves (Balmain Vent Vert, L’Artisan Premier Figuier). |
| Hesperidic | A term describing essential oils obtained from citrus fruits. |
| Heterogeneous | differing in kind : consisting of dissimilar parts : mixed. a heterogeneous population |
| Homme | Men |
| Homogeneous | consisting of parts all of the same kind. |
| Honey | A very sweet, heavy, syrupy, fragrance note; is tenacious. |
| House | Perfume Brand |
| Hydrosol | The aromatic water remaining after distillation. |
| Hyposmia | or microsmia, is a reduced ability to smell and to detect odors. A related condition is anosmia, in which no odors can be detected. Some of the causes of olfaction problems are allergies, nasal polyps, viral infections and head trauma. |
I
| IATA | The International Air Transport Association (IATA) is the trade association for the world's airlines. |
| IFRA | IFRA or the International Fragrance Association is a controversial (often misunderstood) body in the industry. IFRA consists of representatives from perfume and oil houses (IFF, Givaudan, Roberte, Symrise etc.). IFRA aims to self-regulate the fragrance industry and gives advice to governing bodies (IFRA itself does not make laws) about toxicity of perfume ingredients. This IFRA standard is updated regularly and has banned or restricted aroma chemicals, forcing perfumes to be reformulated as the EU legislators closely follow IFRA advice and perfumes must comply with IFRA standards to be legally sold within the EU. The restrictions and the admittedly questionable conflict of interest is cause for much debate and criticism from the fragrance community. This is only half the story however. The European Commission has their own ideas, based on arguably less favorable research, about banning perfume ingredients. IFRA acts as a middle ground, where the industry self-regulates, so that governing bodies are satisfied. Take IFRA out of the equation and chances are that worse decisions would have drastically more impact on the perfume industry. There’s an on-going discussion about banning vs. labeling. Why can cigarettes and unhealthy foods be sold with warnings? Peanut butter can be sold despite peanut allergies. But perfume ingredients get banned for an estimated 1-3% of the population that may encounter allergic reactions. I hope there will be a future where there is less restriction, in favor of providing information and letting customers make their own decision. |
| Immortelle | a flower note used in perfumery. It has a warm, honey-like aroma with subtle herbal and spicy undertones. Immortelle notes add a unique and distinctive character to fragrances, often evoking a sense of warmth, richness, and sun-kissed landscapes. |
| Impact | The relative speed in which the fragrance is detectable to your nose compared to a standard material, such as Linalool. |
| Incense | The burning of fragrant gums or resins in a solid or powder form. Giving off a lingering, scented smoke and is the original form in which fragrance was used. Incense Sticks are more commonly referred to as Joss Sticks |
| Indie | Independent usually small perfumers who create market and distribute their own perfumes. |
| Indolic | Indolic is an interesting quality, found mostly in (white) floral notes. The indols responsible occur in nature where there is decay and decomposition. It’s found in feces, which is a connection often made, and while high doses of indols can smell a bit fecal, it’s given the material an unwarranted bad reputation. Indolic adds a facet that makes floral notes feel real, raw and rich; it gives them weight. At its most daring it can be a tad animalic, raunchy, sexual, dark, while in moderation it can be opulent, sensual, mysterious. |
| Induced Temporary Selective Anosmia | This is a method used by perfumers to deaden their sense of smell to one set of materials by repeatedly smelling them (for example the bottom note of a perfume) and then quickly smelling another set of materials (e.g. the top note of the same perfume). The effect is that the first set of materials is effectively cut out from the second set and specific materials are easier to identify. This method should only be used sparingly as it is very tiring and long term sensory and health effects are un-researched. |
| Infusion Or Tincture | A solution obtained by prolonged contact with alcohol. When hot alcohols are used it is called infusion. When alcohols are at room temperature or warm the method is called a tincture. |
| Inky | The elusive ink note adds a unique facet to fragrance compositions. Its sooty, camphorous scent lends a beguiling hook to top notes.Think of wet ink on paper. |
| Insoluble | Unable to be dissolved in a solvent (liquid) such as water, alcohol, oil etc. |
| Ionones | Violets and Iris depend on this group of highly valued synthetic chemicals. Used in small amounts in many floral, green, woody perfumes. Although this group of chemicals is dominated by just two chemicals "Ionone" and "Methyl Ionone" there are many, many isomers and qualities available that give different odour profiles from fruity - violet - green to iris. An important function is they act as blenders in a perfume helping the perfume to smell harmonious. It is also interesting to note that the nose quickly fatigues when smelling Ionones and the smell appears to fade. This same effect is found when smelling natural Violet flowers. |
| Iso E Super | Aromachemical added to fragrances to impart smoothness, fullness and strength |
| Isotopes | each of two or more forms of the same element that contain equal numbers of protons but different numbers of neutrons in their nuclei, and hence differ in relative atomic mass but not in chemical properties; in particular, a radioactive form of an element. |
J
| Jammy | usually refers to rose or fruity scents which smell like jam |
| Jardin | Jardin, meaning “garden” in French, is a term often used in perfumery to indicate a fragrance inspired by or evocative of a specific garden or natural landscape. Jardin fragrances often feature a variety of floral, green, and sometimes fruity notes to capture the essence and ambiance of a garden. These scents can be fresh, vibrant, or romantic, offering a sensorial journey through a lush and blooming garden. |
| Jasmine | A popular white flower used in many fragrances. |
| Juice | Trivial term used in perfumery to designate the alcoholic solution of a perfume concentrate. |
| Juxtaposition | refers to the deliberate placement or combination of contrasting fragrance elements in a composition. It involves the pairing of different scent characteristics, such as light and dark, sweet and bitter, or fresh and warm, to create an intriguing and harmonious fragrance. Juxtaposition in perfumery aims to create a dynamic and balanced olfactory experience by blending contrasting notes or accords. |
K
| Kirsch | refers to a fragrance note or accord inspired by the aroma of kirsch, a type of cherry liqueur made from fermented cherries. In perfumery, kirsch notes can evoke the sweet, fruity, and slightly boozy scent of cherries and cherry liqueur. They can add a touch of indulgence and sophistication to fragrance compositions. |
| Knotty | in the context of perfumery, can refer to a fragrance note or accord that has a complex, intricate, or tangled character. It may encompass scents that are rich, textured, or intertwined, creating a captivating and multi-dimensional olfactory experience. Knotty notes can range from woody, resinous, or spicy elements to more abstract and elusive accords, adding depth and intrigue to fragrances. |
L
| Lab Mixer | A laboratory mixer is a complete system for mixing different samples to obtain a homogeneous mixture of the materials. |
| Lab Stand | Lab stands are used in almost any area of science or chemistry for holding and adjusting various experiment apparatuses. |
| Labdanum | a resinous substance derived from the rockrose plant. It has a rich, warm, and slightly animalic scent. Labdanum is used in perfumery as a base note to add depth, richness, and a touch of sensuality to fragrances. It has a balsamic and amber-like quality, often providing a resinous and sweet aroma. |
| Lactonic | Creamy milky notes; sometimes fruity nuances |
| Lastingness | The ability of a fragrance to retain its character over a given period of time. |
| Layering | Layering is the art (or some would say, crime) of wearing multiple perfumes at once. |
| Leafy | One of the many variations of the green note. |
| Leather | A smoky, rich note reminiscent of tanned leather. |
| Leathery | a note recalling the tangy and animalic quality of fine leather. |
| L'Eau | French for water in perfumery |
| Légere/Léger | Means light in French so a lighter version of the original fragrance |
| L'Homme | a gentleman's fragrance |
| Lift | To add life to a fragrance blend is to give it lift and some brilliancy; lift can also refer to diffusiveness of a given blend. A perfume having lift has a brilliant top note with wide diffusiveness. |
| Light | A light fragrance is balanced toward the top notes. |
| Linalool | A naturally occurring terpene alcohol found in many flowers. |
| Linear | This refers to a perfumery composition presenting the same olfactory impression throughout its evaporation. |
| Longevity | The average time a fragrance is noticeable or detectable. |
| Lonones | a class of aroma compounds commonly found in various fragrance ingredients. They contribute to the overall scent profile of a fragrance. Lonones can have different olfactory characteristics, such as fruity, floral, or powdery notes. They are often used in perfumery to enhance and modify the scent of a fragrance, adding nuance and depth. |
| Loukhoum | A sweet confection known as Turkish delight. It’s made with sugar and starch coated in powdered sugar. Usually flavored with rosewater but also bergamot, mastic or lemon. Some varieties can have pistachios, hazelnuts and walnuts |
M
| Maceration | This process is quite similar to enfleurage. In the latter cold fats are used, while in maceration the fats are heated. The flowers are immersed, the cells bearing the odoriferous oils are ruptured, and the fats absorb the oils. To obtain the pomade, the flowers are removed from the fats and fresh flowers are mixed in over and over again until the fats are completely saturated with the flower oil. |
| Magnitude | Effect of olfactory volume combining an impression of power and richness. |
| Maison | French for "House" |
| Marine / Aquatic / Blue | A family or style of fragrances that’s been very popular with some of the biggest sellers like Davidoff Cool Water and Armani Acqua Di Gio. Adjacent are what are now simply being called ‘blue’ fragrances like Bleu de Chanel & Dior Sauvage. Often evoking the sea or seaside. |
| Mass Appealing | Mass appealing means that a fragrance is likely to be enjoyed or at least tolerated by a great majority of people. As opposed to challenging, daring fragrances. |
| Master Perfumer | A master perfumer is a highly skilled professional who has undergone extensive training and apprenticeships to perfect their craft. They possess a deep understanding of fragrance chemistry and the ability to blend various notes into beautiful and functional scents. |
| Maturation | The time required for a perfume concentrate to age or reach its full potential before being put into a base. |
| Mellow | A fragrance that gives a balanced, smooth and rich impression. |
| Metallic | A Fresh and Futuristic Touch in Perfumery |
| Micro-Encapsulation | A method of incorporating thin-walled, microscopic capsules containing fragrance oils into a solid substance (fragrance advertising inserts, capsules, blotters, paper, etc.) |
| Mineralic | Mineralic is a quality often related to marine / aquatic fragrances. Generally fresh scents, with watery, airy or metallic facets. Often connected to a saltiness as well. |
| Modern | A subjective interpretation used to describe a fragrance composition updated using current trend accords. |
| Modifiers / Accents | A modifier or accent note is one that enhances or modifies the heart accord of the perfume. Irrespective of construction. Whether the perfumer is thinking along the traditional lines of top, heart/mid and base notes or taking a more linear approach, there will undoubtedly be the need for accent notes to draw out the beauty, longevity, and so on of the core of the scent. |
| Molecular Distillation | A technique that allows one to rework essences and absolutes to get rid of undesired facets and obtain very pure raw materials. |
| Monoi | Gardenia petals macerated in coconut oil |
| Monotheme | Sometimes used in relation to perfume, when referring to single-note fragrances like sandalwood, patchouli, tonka etc. |
| Mossy | The odor suggestive of the aromatic lichens, and mosses, primarily oak miss and tree moss; reminiscent of forest depths. |
| Muguet | French for Lily of the Valley. One of the three most used florals in perfumery. Unlike Jasmine and Rose however a natural absolute or essential oil has never really been commercially available. The smell in perfumery is approximated by Hydroxycitronellal and more recent additions to the perfumers palette Lyral, Lilial. |
| Musk | There are many different types of musk, and every fragrance contains at least one of them. Some musks smell metallic and earthy, others are sweet and creamy. White musks, for instance, have a freshly ironed linen impression. Luminous musks, radiant musks, solar musks and other exotic musks that crop up in fragrance descriptions usually fall into the modern white musk category. One of the most distinctive musky fragrances is Narciso Rodriguez for Her. |
| Myrrh | a resinous substance obtained from the bark of certain trees. It has a rich, balsamic, and slightly sweet scent with hints of warmth and spice. Myrrh is used in perfumery as a base note to add depth, complexity, and a sense of ancient mystique to fragrances. It can provide a resinous, incense-like quality that adds a touch of spirituality and elegance. |
| Myrtle | a shrub with aromatic leaves and small white flowers. In perfumery, myrtle is used as a fragrance note to add a fresh, green, and slightly herbal aroma to scents. Myrtle notes can contribute to a sense of vitality, cleanliness, and a touch of Mediterranean ambiance in fragrances. |
N
| Narcissus | White flowers from this tree are used in perfumery, particularly French perfumery |
| Narcotic | The term used to indicate the intoxicating effect of some floral notes. Notably Narcissus, Tuberose, Ylang Ylang. Anybody that doubts this only has to travel in a truck bound for market filled with the blossoms. |
| Natural | Any perfume ingredient derived from natural, non-synthetic sources. |
| Neroli | The essential oil from steam-distilling the orange flowers from the Seville Orange or Citrus aurantiam. It has a sharper, more citrus scent than orange blossom, which comes from the same flowers. Petit grain is the essential oil extracted from this same plant’s leaves and twigs, producing a woody-herbaceous scent used often in men’s fragrances. |
| Niche Fragrance | Niche fragrances are typically custom-made or produced in limited quantities, setting them apart from commercial or “designer” perfumes commonly found in department stores. |
| Nose | A nose is the person responsible for creating the formula of a fragrance. While a creative director or brand may be involved in conceptualizing, the nose is the one with the training and expertise to actually combine the precise ingredients- noses often have advanced degrees in chemistry, which are required for entry at many of the world's top perfumery schools. |
| Noseblind | Sometimes called olfactory fatigue; relating to perfume the inability to smell some notes if regularly exposed to them |
| Notes | In the realm of fragrance, “notes” are the individual ingredients that combine to create the overall scent profile. |
| Novelty Fragrance | Perfume purchased for reasons other than its smell, maybe the bottle design or an unusual scent |
O
| Oakmoss | A type of lichen that grows on oak trees that is crucial in chypre fragrances. Earthy, woodsy, and, of course, mossy, in scent. See: aforementioned potential banning. |
| Oceanic | refers to fragrances inspired by the scent of the ocean or the sea. Oceanic fragrances often feature marine and aquatic notes, evoking the freshness, coolness, and breeziness associated with oceanic environments. They can have a clean, refreshing, and sometimes slightly ozonic quality, creating a sense of tranquility and coastal ambiance. |
| Odor Memory | The ability of a perfumer to hold, and bring to recall, hundreds of single perfume odors and odor blends. |
| Odor Or Odour | Airborne chemicals emanating from water, objects, one’s body, flowers or fragrance that stimulate the olfactory system. The characteristic smell of something. |
| Office Friendly | Perfume unlikely to cause offence in a work environment |
| Official Sample | Samples provided from brands |
| Olfactory | Of, or relating to the sense of smell. |
| Olfactory Bulb | The organ situated deep within the nasal cavity that holds the cilia (hair like structures) that come in contact with odourous molecules entering the nose or from the throat. The olfactory bulb passes the impulse to the limbic region of the brain. |
| Olfactory Fatigue | Temporary but normal inability to pick up a particular smell after being exposed to it for a long time. Removing exposure for a time will usually result in being able to smell it again. |
| Olfactory Form | Pictorial expression of the architectural structure of a perfume. |
| Oppoponax | Also known as sweet myrrh, it has a balsamic scent. |
| Organ (Perfumers) | Refers to a unit of stepped shelving containing hundreds of bottles of raw materials. Arrangement is in a way to assist the perfumer in the creation and compounding of perfume compositions. |
| Organic Compounds | Chemicals whose molecules are structured with carbon. The term should not be confused with naturally occurring. |
| Organic Farming | Cultivation without the use of artificial herbicides, fertilizers or pesticides. |
| Oriental | a fragrance family that uses rich notes of vanilla, balsams, sandalwood, patchouli and musk to create a heady, sensual aura. |
| Orris | refers to the root of the Iris germanica plant. It has a delicate, powdery, and slightly floral scent. Orris is widely used in perfumery for its luxurious and refined qualities. It can add a velvety, creamy, and elegant character to fragrances, often associated with a sense of sophistication and femininity. |
| Osmanthus | Flowering tree from China with delicate fruity apricot aroma |
| Oud | Oud, also known as Oudh, is an incredibly potent oil extracted from the heartwood of the knotted Aquilaria tree. Its intense fragrance makes it a prized ingredient in perfumery, often used as a base note or as a standalone scent. |
| Overtones | The most dominant notes in a scent. |
| Ozonic |
Fresh and airy notes reminiscent of the ozone or sea spray. |
P
| Palette | The range of perfume ingredients from which a perfumer selects to use in the formulation of a perfume. |
| Parfum | Same as extrait |
| Patchouli | A woody herb used for its earthy base notes. |
| Pelatrice | This is a popular Italian extraction method that's specific to citrus fruits. The fruits are crushed and punctured to release the peel's essence, which is then washed away with water, and separated. |
| Perfume | a substance, extract, or preparation for diffusing or imparting an agreeable or attractive smell, especially a fluid containing fragrant natural oils extracted from flowers, woods, etc., or similar synthetic oils. |
| Perfume Blotters | Strips of odorless white blotting paper, which the perfumer uses to evaluate a scent as it develops. |
| Perfume Family | See Perfume Types - Grouping by olfactive family is a starting point to describe fragrances but it cannot by itself denote all the characteristics of that fragrance. The traditional classification categories are: Floral-oriental-amber-woody-leather-chypre-fougere. More categories have come into existence like green, ozonic or gourmand. |
| Perfumers Workbook | a formula writing program aimed at the professional perfumer, flavourist or trainee. It enables you to keep thousands of formulas in a compact easy to search version with lots of easy to use tools to help the professional or even complete beginner create better perfumes in less time. |
| Perfumers Worksheet | a formula writing program used for recording and calculating perfume formulations. |
| Petally | refers to a fragrance note or accord that captures the delicate, soft, and ethereal scent of flower petals. It evokes the fresh, floral, and sometimes slightly powdery aroma that is reminiscent of blooming flowers. Petally notes can range from light and airy to lush and romantic, adding a touch of elegance and femininity to fragrances. |
| Phenolic | refers to a fragrance note or accord that carries a distinct smoky, medicinal, or antiseptic quality. Phenolic notes are often associated with ingredients such as phenol, guaiacol, or cade oil. They can add depth, intensity, and a touch of intrigue to fragrances, creating a unique olfactory experience. |
| Pheromone | Chemical substance secreted by an animals to produce a response by other members of the same species. Sexual attractants are the most widely studied and described. There is some discussion as to whether the term should be used for humans. In recent years research has indicated that we may have a sixth sense (a chemical sense) from the Human Vero Nomasal Organs (VNO), located in the nasal cavity that produce a signal to very specific steroid type chemicals. The response is gender specific meaning that males and females respond to different chemicals. Claims of using pheromones in perfumes up till now have no basis in fact and most are based on the pig attractant (Boarmate) which produces no signal from the VNO. |
| Pomades | Combination of purified fats and flower oils produced by the enfleurage and maceration processes. |
| Pour | French word meaning "For" |
| Pour Fragrance | A pour fragrance refers to a fragrance tipped out of the bottle rather than sprayed. Less portable and therefore not as popular as sprays, but they usually have a dry down of greater intensity than a spray. |
| Powdery | A term used to describe fragrances having considerable sweet and musk-like odors in the drydown. |
| Powerhouse | Perfume that is incredibly strong from the start with great longevity and projection. |
| Precision Scale | A precision scale is a weighing instrument with high sensibility, designed, precisely, to measure the mass of solids and liquids with a high level of precision. |
| Presentation | The presentation of the fragrance includes the packaging and the design of the bottle and cap. It may go a bit further and include the concept, the marketing, the promotional material. But usually, it refers to the bottle and the box. |
| Price Extension (Price/Ext) | Price/Kg times % in formula. A term used to show the cost factor of a material in a compounded perfume or flavour. The price/kg does not matter what is important is the combination of price and percentage used. Frequently cheap materials have a bigger cost effect on a compound raw material cost than very expensive materials used at fractions of 1 percent. |
| Professional Perfumer | a person whose main occupation is to produce perfume. |
| Profile | A perfume or perfumed product profile is a description of the fragrance prepared by a marketer, which is given to a perfumer for inspiration and formulation. The profile should contain all pertinent details in relation to marketing the new fragrance plan, type, name, package, color/theme, mood, impression, cost parameters, etc. |
| Projection | Term for how far away from the wearer someone else would be able to smell the fragrance. Often estimated by how many inches away from the skin a scent projects. |
| Pulse Points | These are the areas on your body where you apply perfume to maximize its longevity. Apply fragrance to your wrists, elbows, and collarbone, allowing it to naturally develop and create a lasting impression. |
| Pungent | A word used to describe a physical impression of sharpness. |
Q
| Quince |
a fragrance note that captures the aroma of the quince fruit. Quince has a unique and distinctive scent that is both sweet and tart, with fruity and floral undertones. It can add a refreshing and invigorating quality to fragrances, evoking the crispness and juiciness of the fruit. Quince notes are often used in both fruity and floral compositions, contributing to a vibrant and lively olfactory experience. |
R
| Radiance | Radiance is rather like sillage but refers to our ability to track and trace, if you like, where the scent originates. |
| Receptor Cell | Located in the olfactory epithelium, each cell has microscopic hairs (cilia) extending into the mucus. Odoriferous substances are thought to fit into specific sites on these cilia and vibrations in the molecule activate a signal. This signal is is transmitted along the olfactory nerves to the olfactory bulb and then to the brain. |
| Reformulation | Under new regulations some perfumes may have ingredients considered to be allergenic removed, therefore the perfume is reformulated. There could be other reasons for reformulation such as cost of ingredients or limited supply and extinction or cruelty to animals. |
| Reinforce | It is to increase the power, or tenacity of one, several, or all of the elements of a composition. |
| Residual | remaining after the greater part or quantity has gone. |
| Resinoids | Are extracts of gums, balsams, resins or roots (orris), which consists in whole or in part of resinous materials. They are generally used as fixatives in perfume compositions. |
| Resinous | a term describing dry, sharp odor of resinous materials like frankincense and elemi. |
| Retailer | a person or business that sells goods to the public in relatively small quantities for use or consumption rather than for resale. |
| Rhizomes | Root like stems with nodes, which grow under or along the ground. Certain perfume raw materials come from rhizome, e.g., Orris absolute and ginger oil. |
| Rich | a general term that suggest an idea of opulence, heft, or a strong presence. |
| Romantic | A group of perfumes that more often than not have a rose or deeply floral heart. |
| Rose | One of the main flower notes used in perfumery. |
| Rose Alcohols | The term used by perfumers for the trio of terpene alcohols found as major constituents in Rose Otto. Geraniol, Citronellol and Nerol, and Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol (PEA) found in the absolute. |
| Rose De Mai | The traditional name given to Rose Absolute produced by solvent then alcohol extraction. Rosa Centifolia. |
| Rose Otto | Water distilled essential oil from rose petals. Rosa Damascena |
| Round Out | In fragrance, to add body, fullness or depth as a means to complete or enhance a fragrance composition. |
| Roundness | Term used to describe the fullness or richness of a fragrance. |
| Run Of Mill Perfume | Ordinary perfume |
S
| Sandy | Dry, mineral, Clean Dirt |
| Santal | French word for sandalwood |
| Scent Bubble | When a scent projects in a way that surrounds you it makes a bubble around you, unlike a scent trail |
| Schiffs Base | Schiff bases are a vast group of compounds characterized by the presence of a double bond linking carbon and nitrogen atoms, the versatility of which is generated in the many ways to combine a variety of alkyl or aryl substituents. Compounds of this type are both found in nature and synthesized in the laboratory. |
| Scrubber | Refers to the act of removing a scent by excessive washing, usually because it's disliked |
| Seaweed | Aquatic, Animalic, Salty, Sulphuric |
| Sexy | for the soft warm, sensual notes of synthetic musk notes (musk ketone, galaxolide etc.) |
| Sfumatrice | This is a typical Italian expression technique for citrus fruits. The Sfumatrice machine draws out the essential oil from the peel through a process of cold compression, which preserves the fruit's integrity and zestiness. |
| Sharp | A combination of coarse aromatic chemicals that produce a penetrating effect, usually, resulting from the lack of roundness or balance. |
| Signature Scent | Describes ones favorite or most-worn fragrance. A fragrance that you can recognize someone by, because they often smell like it. |
| Sillage/ Scent Trail | A metric of performance for a fragrance. Whereas longevity measures the length of the wear and projection measures how far away from you it reaches, sillage says something about how much of the fragrance sticks around. It describes how dense and noticeable the scent is in your immediate area and how much of it remains in the air after you have left the room. This is often referred to as a scent trail and is seen as an advantage of mostly higher concentration and heavier, darker fragrances. |
| Single Florals | This is the most specific category. Generally the name of the fragrance is similar to the name of the floral it has taken inspiration from. Although the major theme of the fragrance is a single floral there are other elements to the perfume. The interpretation by various perfumers of this category makes them differ in their evolution. |
| Skin Scent | A scent with minimal projection (i.e., one that can only be detected when extremely close to the wearer). Because of the kinds of ingredients that tend to have this effect, many skin scents have similar characteristics: soft, sheer, and musky. |
| Smoky | Smoke in scents is related to incense, birch oud, vetiver and tobacco notes. Possibly other wood and resin notes. Leather perfumes can also have a smoky quality and some animalics like castoreum can have smoky nuances. |
| Soapy | If you’ve ever tried making your own soap, you might be familiar with the scent that rises up as you mix oils or fats with an alkaline solution. However, commercial soap is usually scented to cover up this residual sharp odor, and when we speak of soapy, we mean the scents associated with the common soap perfumes. It is a vague term because soap smells very differently depending on where you grew up. However, when soapy is used to describe a perfume in North America, it usually means that a perfume is either aldehydic, fatty and waxy, has a strong white, laundry-type musk or an orange blossom note. |
| Solar Notes | Notes in perfumes that make us think of the sun. |
| Soliflore | A single floral note is desired; this is the beginning of modern perfumery. We copy nature, we try to reconstitute and stylize: a Rose, a Jasmine, a Violet, a Lilac, a Lily of the Valley… |
| Soluble | Able to be dissolved in a solvent (liquid) such as water, oil, alcohol. |
| Solvent Extraction | The most common method for extracting fragrance from natural materials, solvent extraction consists of submerging/macerating the raw material in a chemical solvent (such as hexane) and then vacuum-separating the now extracted fragrant material from the solvent. This produces a solid known as a concrete, which can then be dissolved and distilled again with alcohol to produce an absolute. |
| Solvents | Volatile fluids used to extract essential oils from flowers and other natural perfume materials. |
| SOTD | Short for "Scent of the Day". This is commonly used in social media platforms to share a person's fragrance choice for the day. |
| SOTN | Short for "Scent of the Night". This is commonly used in social media platforms to share a person's fragrance choice for the night. |
| Specialities | Natural oils, natural isolates or synthetics, either alone or in combination, which are used as building blocks for fragrance compounds. They are less complex than a finished fragrance compound. They may be an end-product of special processing treatments or unique raw materials. A single company under a trade name usually supplies them. |
| Species | Major subdivision of a genus of plants. A biological classification composed of related plant individuals. |
| Spicy | A word descriptive of a pungent or piquant fragrance. Oil of cloves or oil of cinnamon are classic examples of spiciness in single aromatic materials. In the flower group, carnation and oil of lavender may be described as having spicy nuances. |
| Spicy Bouquet | As the name implies, this group relies on spice notes such as clove, cinnamon, nutmeg and bay for its principal notes. Spice notes are universally used in perfumery. Examples are Pierre Cardin, Spellbound and L’Air du Temps. |
| Spicy | Scented with spice notes. |
| Split | The process whereby a person (splitter) buys a bottle of perfume and offers to sell decants at no profit to other members. |
| Spritz | This is what you do with light Eau Fraiche fragrances. It refers to the practice of applying your fragrance from top to toe for all-over fragrant appeal. |
| Stability | Term used to refer to a fragrances ability to be nonreactive with itself or its base. Fragrances are made stable to avoid issues such as discoloration. Stability tests try to replicate potential long term storage issues before a product goes to market. |
| Strength | The relative intensity of a fragrance impression. |
| Suede | a fragrance note that captures the scent and texture of suede leather. It has a soft, velvety, and luxurious aroma with hints of warmth and a subtle, tactile quality. Suede notes can add depth and sophistication to fragrances, creating a sense of comfort, elegance, and sensuality. They are often used in both masculine and feminine compositions, contributing to a smooth and tactile aspect of the scent. |
| Sweet | A fragrance impression that imparts a sensation. Natural examples include vanilla, benzoin and honey. |
| Synergistic | To combine in such a way that the total effect is more than the individual parts. |
| Synthetic |
Used shorthand for any perfume ingredient that is created via chemical synthesis, as opposed to those extracted from natural material. |
T
| Talisman | a term used to describe a fragrance that holds a special meaning or significance to an individual. A talisman fragrance is often a personal scent that carries sentimental value or holds specific memories and associations for the wearer. It can evoke emotions, bring comfort, or serve as a source of inspiration. A talisman fragrance is deeply personal and unique to each individual, symbolizing a connection between the scent and the wearer’s experiences or identity. |
| Tenacity | The ability of a perfume to last, or a fragrance note to retain its characteristic odor. |
| Terpenes | Organic compounds that are major components in essential oils. |
| Terpenic | refers to fragrance notes or accords that are derived from terpenes, which are organic compounds found in various plants and essential oils. Terpenic notes often have a fresh, aromatic, and sometimes medicinal quality. They can range from citrusy and pine-like scents to more complex and herbal aromas. Terpenic notes add vibrancy and a natural, botanical element to fragrances, evoking the essence of plants and their aromatic profiles. |
| Tester Bottle | Tester bottles are used in stores to let people sample the fragrance. |
| Theme | The idea thought of by the creative perfumer or given to the perfumer by a profile. |
| Thin | A fragrance lacking in complexity or body. A thin fragrance is very linear or single noted. |
| Tincture | A tincture is typically an extract of plant or animal material dissolved in ethanol (ethyl alcohol). |
| Tobacco & Leather | These are two distinctive notes possessing great tenacity, used primarily in men’s fragrances. Their use is as important in modern perfumery as it was in the infancy of the art. Some examples in this area are Kourous, Aramis, and Antaeus |
| Tonic | Term used for compositions likely to stimulate certain activities of the sense of smell or of the epidermis. |
| Tonka Bean | From the seeds of the Dipteryx odorata tree. They are richly vanillic with a hint of cinnamon and almond. |
| Top Notes | The top notes are the first notes that one smells after applying a fragrance. Top notes tend to be made of lighter molecules than the rest of a fragrance, meaning that they disappear first as those molecules evaporate, revealing the heart of the fragrance (see Heart Notes). Various forms of citrus are often used as top notes. |
| Trademark | A trademark is a recognizable sign, phrase, or symbol that denotes a product or service and legally differentiates it from all others of its kind. |
| Transparent Fragrances | Scents with light, bright notes and a clean, fresh sparkle are called transparent/ translucent scents. Top notes are often citrus-based, while heart notes may include grasses or marine aromas. These types of fragrance were very popular in the 1990s. |
| Trickle Down | Adaptation of a perfume according to specific technical data aimed at creating a line. |
| Turned | Term used to describe when a perfume has gone off or bad. Some indications of this might be the smell of celery, celery salt, pepper, rancid oil, acetone ( provided they aren’t notes |
| Twist Spray | A type of perfume bottle that operates by twisting. |
| Twist-On Fragrance | Similar to a clone fragrance, a "twist-on" fragrance is dupe or clone fragrance with a slight alteration. |
U
| Under The Radar | Perfumes that don't get much notice |
| Undertones | Subtle characteristics of the fragrance background creating pleasant nuances that are an important part of the fragrance character. |
| Unisex | In relation to perfume unisex generally means gender neutral |
| Urinous | Pertaining to resembling or having the odour or qualities of urine. The word is often used discussing perfumes that contains notes which may smell urinous in certain combinations. |
V
| Vanilla | A popular, sweet and creamy note. |
| Vanillic | can refer either to vanilla or to vanilla redolent materials: benzoin, tolu balsam, vanillin, etc. Dior Addict and Parfums de Nicolai Vanille Tonka rely on a blend of different vanillic materials. |
| Vanillic | a fragrance note or accord that captures the aroma of vanilla. Vanillic notes can range from sweet, creamy, and dessert-like to warm, cozy, and aromatic. They are derived from natural vanilla beans or synthetic compounds that mimic the scent of vanilla. Vanillic notes are widely used in perfumery and can add a comforting, gourmand, and sometimes sensual quality to fragrances. They are versatile and can be found in a wide range of fragrance compositions, from sweet and indulgent creations to more sophisticated and complex blends. |
| Velvety | A soft, smooth, mellow fragrance without harsh chemical notes. |
| Vendor / Supplier | a person or company offering something for sale (in reference to perfume oils and packaging). |
| Verbena | a fragrance note that captures the fresh, citrusy, and herbal scent of the Verbena plant. Verbena has a bright, zesty, and uplifting aroma with a slightly floral undertone. It is often associated with a sense of energy, vitality, and freshness. Verbena notes are commonly used in perfumery to add a refreshing and invigorating aspect to fragrances, evoking a feeling of crispness and rejuvenation. They can be found in a variety of fragrance compositions, ranging from citrus-based scents to aromatic and green blends. |
| Versatility | A term coined online for a versatile, easy to wear fragrance. One that you can spray on, for almost any type of event, in any weather without having to think about it too much. A safe pick. |
| Vetiver | An essential oil steam-distilled from the roots of a tall grass native to India—though Haiti is now its largest producer. It has an earthy, peppery, lemony, dusty scent that has been used extensively in perfumery. |
| Viscosity | Pertaining to the thickness or thinness of a liquid. |
| Vivaldi | A perfume or cologne suited to all seasons. |
| Volatile | The property of being freely diffused in the atmosphere, easily vaporized at a low temperature. |
| Volume | the amount of space that a substance or object occupies, or that is enclosed within a container, especially when great. |
W
| Warm | A word used to describe a fragrance that has a stimulating effect upon the imagination. The effect of warmth is usually conferred by material having an unconventional odor. |
| Warm Spice | Spices that give an intense and burning sensation, such as ginger, cinnamon, cardamom, and black pepper. |
| Waxy | candle wax, citrus peel, honeycomb, Aldehydic |
| Well Blended | a well balanced perfume formula that smoothly transitions between notes. |
| White Floral | a very general term that encompasses the jasmine-family florals (jasmine-like in terms of scent night blooming flowers like jasmine, orange blossom, tuberose, gardenia, frangipani, etc. |
| White Flowers | Flowers like jasmine, tuberose, or gardenia. |
| Wholesaler | a person or company that sells goods in large quantities at low prices, typically to retailers. |
| Wild | Growing spontaneously, not cultivated. |
| Wisteria | a fragrance note that captures the delicate, sweet, and slightly powdery scent of the wisteria flower. Wisteria has a light and airy aroma with floral and green undertones. |
| Woody | A fragrance effect generally linked with the aroma of fresh cut, dry, oriental wood or fibrous root, as illustrated respectively by the essential oil of sandalwood or vetiver. Woody is a term having an entirely different meaning to the layman than it does to the perfumer and should not be confused with “woodsy,” which implies the green effect of a forest. |
X
| Xerophytic | Plants like cacti, used sometimes for their unique scents. |
Y
| Yeast | Fungal, mushroom, oakmoss, treemoss notes |
| Ylang-Ylang | A tropical flower with a sweet, floral scent. |
| Yuzu | a citrus fruit native to East Asia, particularly Japan. The fragrance note derived from yuzu captures the bright, zesty, and uplifting aroma of the fruit. |
Z
| Zen | In the context of perfumery, a fragrance labeled as “Zen” often evokes a sense of serenity and balance. It may have a composition that is clean, minimalist, and characterized by subtle nuances. Zen fragrances are typically associated with natural and calming elements, such as fresh green notes, delicate florals, or gentle woody accords. They aim to create a serene and meditative olfactory experience, allowing the wearer to feel centered and at ease. |
| Zeotropic | A zeotropic mixture, or non-azeotropic mixture, is a mixture with liquid components that have different boiling points. |
| Zesty | a citrusy, fizzy and astringent sensation reminiscent of grated citrus peel. |
| Zibet | Another term for Civet. |
Please email us at info@hezparfums.com if you would like us to include additional terms to our glossary.