Hez Parfums Beginner's Guide to Perfumery 024 - Exploring Oil Extraction Techniques (Expression, Distillation, and Enfleurage)

 

In the world of perfumery and essential oils, various traditional methods have been employed to extract the essence of aromatic plants. Each technique has its unique history and process, contributing to the rich tapestry of fragrance production. Let’s delve into three time-honored methods: Expression, Distillation, and Enfleurage.

 

Expression: The Citrus Oil Classic

 

Originating in Sicily during the 19th century, the expression method is a classic technique reserved exclusively for citrus fruits. This mechanical extraction process involves pressing the peels, or zests, of citrus fruits to release their essential oils. The goal is to subject the peels to high pressure using a press, extracting a liquid known as the "absolute." This method maintains the purity of the fruit’s aroma, preserving its natural scent.

 

Historically, the expression method was labor-intensive. The “sponge” process required cutting the fruit in half, removing the pulp, and moistening the skin. After a resting period, the essence was pressed onto sponges, which were then squeezed to release the oil. Today, industrial advancements have streamlined this process. Modern techniques involve pressing the whole fruit and using a centrifuge to separate the juice and essential oil, making it more efficient and less laborious.

 

 

Distillation: The Ancient Art of Steam Extraction

 

Distillation is a cornerstone of the perfume industry, tracing its origins to ancient times but refined by Arab alchemists during the Middle Ages. This technique involves heating aromatic plants with steam in a large steel vessel known as an alembic. The steam, carrying the essential oil, travels through serpentine pipes and is then condensed. The condensed steam results in a concentrated essential oil, with any remaining moisture forming floral water.

 

The quality of the essential oil depends on various factors, including the plant used, distillation conditions, and the duration of the process. Perfumers may also employ fractionation to isolate and enhance different components of the oil, creating complex fragrances. However, distillation is resource-intensive, requiring significant quantities of raw materials—such as one ton of roses to produce just one kilogram of oil.

 

 

Enfleurage: The Historical Process of Absorption

 

Enfleurage, an ancient technique perfected in 18th-century Grasse, France, was a prominent method until the 1930s when solvent extraction took over. This process utilizes a fatty substance to absorb the fragrance from flowers. There are two primary types: hot and cold enfleurage.

 

Hot enfleurage, or maceration, involves immersing heat-resistant flowers in a preheated fatty substance (40-60°C). The mixture is stirred for about two hours until the fat becomes saturated with the aroma, resulting in a pomade. This pomade is then filtered and decanted with alcohol to yield the Absolue.

 

Cold enfleurage, used for more delicate flowers, involves spreading grease on a glass frame and layering it with flowers. The flowers are replaced regularly to ensure thorough absorption. This method is slow, often taking several months, and one kilogram of fat can absorb up to three kilograms of plant aroma. The subsequent process mirrors hot enfleurage: the pomade is melted, treated with ethyl alcohol, and filtered to isolate the pure essence, or Absolue.

 

These traditional methods, though laborious and time-consuming, highlight the artistry and dedication involved in the art of fragrance. Each technique offers a unique approach to capturing the essence of nature’s most fragrant plants, contributing to the timeless allure of perfumery.