Hez Parfums Beginner's Guide to Perfumery 022 - Exploring Incense in Perfumery
Hez Parfums Beginner's Guide to Perfumery 022 - Exploring Incense in Perfumery
In the world of perfumery, incense has a profound and evocative role. Its rich, smoky, and often spiritual qualities can add depth and complexity to a fragrance. As renowned perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena once said, “Perfume is a way of expressing emotions and memories. Incense adds a layer of depth, a bridge to the past and the mystical.” Here’s a closer look at how incense can be used in perfumery.
The Role of Incense in Perfumery
Incense has been used for centuries in various cultures for its aromatic properties and spiritual significance. In perfumery, incense can serve several purposes:
1. Base Note: Incense often functions as a base note, providing a long-lasting foundation that anchors the other elements of a fragrance.
2. Complexity: The smoky and resinous qualities of incense add layers of complexity and depth, enriching the scent profile of a perfume.
3. Meditative Qualities: Incense can evoke a sense of calm and introspection, adding an emotional and psychological dimension to the fragrance.
Incense in Perfumery
Here is a list of different oils that you can use to create unique and captivating incense accords in perfumes, along with example formulas to illustrate their potential:
1. Frankincense (Olibanum)
Frankincense is the scent of ancient mysteries, a bridge between the earthly and the divine.
- Example Formula:
- Frankincense: 15%
- Myrrh: 10%
- Sandalwood: 20%
- Vanilla: 5%
- Bergamot: 10%
- Cedarwood: 10%
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2. Myrrh
Myrrh adds a touch of antiquity and depth to modern perfumery.
- Example Formula:
- Myrrh: 12%
- Frankincense: 12%
- Labdanum: 8%
- Rose: 8%
- Patchouli: 10%
- Orange Blossom: 10%
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3. Bois d'Encense
- Example Formula:
- Sandalwood: 20%
- Vanilla: 10%
- Tonka Bean: 8%
- Jasmine: 12%
- Bois d'Encense 10%
- Vetiver: 10%
- Fractionated Coconut Oil (carrier): 30%
4. Opoponax (Sweet Myrrh)
Opoponax is sweet, balsamic, spicy, warm, and slightly animalic.
- Example Formula:
- Olibanum: 18%
- Benzoin: 12%
- Lavender: 8%
- Patchouli: 8%
- Geranium: 10%
- Cardamom: 5%
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5. Benzoin
Benzoin adds a sweet, resinous warmth that enhances the soulfulness of a fragrance." – Unknown
- Example Formula:
- Benzoin: 15%
- Labdanum: 10%
- Sandalwood: 15%
- Ylang-Ylang: 10%
- Frankincense: 10%
- Cinnamon: 5%
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6. Labdanum
Labdanum’s amber-like richness lends a sense of opulence and mystique.
- Example Formula:
- Labdanum: 18%
- Myrrh: 10%
- Patchouli: 12%
- Vanilla: 8%
- Neroli: 10%
- Bergamot: 5%
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7. Copaiba
Copaiba’s balsamic sweetness can soften and enrich any fragrance composition.
- Example Formula:
- Copaiba: 14%
- Benzoin: 12%
- Frankincense: 10%
- Cedarwood: 10%
- Vanilla: 8%
- Rose: 6%
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8. Guggul
Guggul’s unique, spicy warmth creates a distinctive and exotic touch.
- Example Formula:
- Guggul: 15%
- Sandalwood: 12%
- Cardamom: 8%
- Patchouli: 10%
- Myrrh: 8%
- Grapefruit: 7%
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9. Cypriol (Nagarmotha)
Cypriol offers an earthy, woody base that grounds and defines a fragrance.
- Example Formula:
- Cypriol: 18%
- Vetiver: 12%
- Cedarwood: 10%
- Frankincense: 8%
- Jasmine: 8%
- Cinnamon: 5%
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10. Saffron
Saffron’s luxurious aroma brings an exotic, rich complexity to any perfume.
- Example Formula:
- Saffron: 10%
- Sandalwood: 15%
- Rose: 12%
- Amber: 10%
- Patchouli: 8%
- Bergamot: 5%
- Fractionated Coconut Oil (carrier): 40%
Conclusion
Incorporating incense into perfumery offers a way to explore complex and layered scents. Each type of incense oil brings its unique qualities to the table, enabling perfumers to create nuanced and memorable fragrances. As perfumer Isabelle Gellé notes, “Incense adds a timeless quality to perfume, a whisper of the sacred and the eternal.” By understanding and experimenting with these oils, you can craft perfumes that evoke deep, sensory experiences and resonate on a profound level.